After several small-scale presentations in Paris and Amsterdam last autumn, Philipp Schueller and Rens de Waal went a step further. This time, again with the sense of irony that typifies the label, Schueller de Waal flirted with all the clichés that surround the immense shows of luxury fashion houses. They embraced the limitations they experience as a young, independent label. This was manifested in a variety of improvised solutions that attempted to satisfy the (unrealistic) expectations of the current system. ‘Serious fashion … not so serious’ is their rallying cry: a critical reflection on the fashion climate in which fashion and luxury have become synonymous.

The jury is particularly impressed by Schueller de Waal’s independent staging of a large show at the Fashion Centre. Launched in 2014, the fashion label’s design vision is refreshing, idealistic, humorous and free-spirited. The combination of show, models and collection was flawless. For some time, the designer duo Schueller de Waal has been one of this jury’s favourite Dutch fashion labels. Schueller de Waal earned this admiration for their fearless approach: designers who flout industry conventions in an otherwise conformist fashion landscape.